皮草潮流趨勢

Bold Colour

  • Cheap & Chic
  • Tom Ford
  • Paul Smith
  • House of Holland
  • Ashley Williams
  • Roksanda Ilincic

One of the strongest trends to emerge from the London collections was for bold colour statements and offbeat colour mixing. Lamb was a popular fur choice within this category and here, we see Cheap & Chic, House of Holland and Ashley Williams use dyed lamb for coat and cape silhouettes. At Tom Ford, we saw some of the most vibrant colour statements, with a bright cerulean blue fur worked back to a neon fuschia brocade. Paul Smith worked recoloured sheepskin in to a pullover silhouette for a modern update on the look while at Roksanda Ilincic, a playful mood saw dyed burnt orange fox used for an exaggerated collar shape on a fairytale dress style.

Animal Prints

  • Burberry
  • Simone Rocha
  • Marques Almeida
  • Tom Ford
  • Cheap & Chic
  • Burberry

Animal printed fur and skins look set to become one of the most dominant trends of the season, and as we saw with the Menswear collections, London-based design house Burberry is setting the pace. Interestingly, we are seeing separates styling emerge as a new option to the more traditional animal printed coat, with Burberry offering a sleek fitted dress style along with a lean belted coat style. Simone Rocha layered a printed jumper over delicate ladylike dressing while at Marques Almeida, we saw a sleeveless shell top work with coordinating pant style. Tom ford opted for a cropped coat with statement trim detail while at Cheap & Chic, it was a contemporary zip front car coat that stole the show.

The Cropped Coat

  • Christopher Kane
  • James Long
  • Paul Smith
  • Mulberry
  • Temperley London
  • Tom Ford

Reminiscent of our DB Reefer Jacket trend for Menswear, a key silhouette at the London womenswear shows was the cropped coat with a boxy, sometimes reefer jacket feel. Christopher Kane gave us the most exaggerated version with a modern take on a DB fastening, while at James Long, we saw an easy boyfriend style worked in to fur. Paul Smith and Mulberry kept the silhouette leaner, the former with a sportier feel and latter playing with a fur/fabric mix. Dressier styles also appeared, with Temperely London making a statement with fur placement, while at Tom Ford, the message was in the mix with three different fur handles creating pattern and texture.

Feminine Top Looks

  • Todd Lynn
  • Osman
  • Bora Aksu
  • JW Anderson
  • Topshop Unique
  • Simone Rocha

The fur top has slowly been emerging as a wearable separate over the seasons but for Autumn Winter 2013-14, it has taken a decidedly feminine slant. At Todd Lynn, a sleeveless shell was given a pretty pleated hem while Bora Aksu used fluffy fur strips to create a ruffled front on a blouse. Clean, modern styling at Osman and JW Anderson saw fur worked in to a broad shouldered top look and fitted bodice silhouette with front pockets, while the fur jumper was cropped and recoloured at Topshop Unique and worked back to a peplum wrap skirt for a black-on-black look at Simone Rocha.

Colour Blocking

  • Antonio Berardi
  • Antipodium
  • Cheap & Chic
  • Eudon Choi
  • Marques Almeida
  • Roksanda Ilincic

Graphic looks have been a strong theme throughout the collections so far and in London, we see them merge with our Pieced & Partitioned trend to create a bold colour blocking story. We loved the Antonio Berardi graphic fur jumper with its pop of bright cobalt blue, as well as the Cheap & Chic banded black and white Mongolian lamb chubby with ¾ sleeve. Antipodium updated the classic bomber with a fur/fabric mix and subtle colour blocking while Eudon Choi worked a contrasting fur lapel back to a menswear-inspired coat silhouette. At Marques Almeida and Roksanda Ilincic, a simple moto jacket and edge-to-edge coat were pieced & partitioned with contrasting colour for an update on the trend.

Knitted Fur

  • Mathew Williamson
  • Issa London
  • Mark Fast
  • Topshop Unique
  • Osman
  • Lucas Nasciment

The trend for knitted fur took new form in London with this fur handle being used primarily for separates rather than outerwear silhouettes. At Mathew Williamson and Issa London, the focus was on patternwork, while other designers including Mark Fast, Topshop Unique and Osman, chose to work with longer haired fur types for a skirt and jacket ensemble as well as the season's all-important fur jumper - a cropped version at Topshop Unique and an asymmetrical style at Osman. At Lucas Nasciment, we saw an easy pullover silhouette updated with sporty rib detail and recoloured in to an electric cobalt blue in a bold statement of colour that seemed to permeate the London collections.

The Dress Coat

  • Burberry
  • Burberry
  • Erdem
  • Mulberry
  • Jasper Conran
  • Eudon Choi

A new silhouette that appeared on the London runways was an interesting hybrid between a dress and a coat, worked in to fur/fabric combinations that were either decorative or clean and streamlined. Burberry gave us two stunning options in the form of an animal print with contrasting skirt bottom and an ultra tailored doublebreasted look with grommeted leather tabs covering the lower body. At Erdem, we saw an ornate lace with floral applique worked in to a simple zip front style with fur collar, while at Mulberry, a lean modern silhouette was worked in to a fur/fabric combination for a black-on-black look. Jasper Conran and Eudon Choi opted for modern dandy styling with a dropped waist and plush fur skirt, allowing a contrast in texture and bold colour to make the statement.

Statement Collars

  • Belle Sauvage
  • Tom Ford
  • Roksanda Ilincic
  • Tom Ford
  • Marios Schwab
  • Osman

As far as fashion cities go, London is by far the most daring in terms of thinking outside of the box. Love it or hate it, it appears that next winter will be no exception as the London shows pushed the boundaries of style once more. Along with mad colour combinations, animal printed furs and quirky silhouette direction, we are also seeing the emergence of the statement collar. Belle Sauvage and Roksanda Ilincic gave us exaggerated peter pan styles while at Tom Ford, it was a spiky fur collar that trailed down the back of a skin tight zebra dress and an asymmetrical leopard collar that finished of a multi-patterned jacket. Marios Schwab was slightly more subtle with a grooved oversized shawl collar, while at Osman, we saw a structured high-neck style that caped the shoulders for a somewhat unusual gilet/jacket hybrid.

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