皮草潮流趨勢

Winter Whites

A fresh, clean palette of winter whites looked new at the Milan collections, with the soft touch of fur adding an understated sense of luxury. Styles varied, with a retro feel in optic white mink at Ermanno Scervin, a contemporary look in sheepskin at Salvatore Ferragamo and casual meets pretty styling in white-on-white at No.21. Texture played a role at Genny and Simonetta Ravissa for a minimal cape silhouette and belted coat, while at Cristiano Burani, it was a tonal fur lapel and caped shoulder detail that made the statement.

Cropped Looks

A key look from the Milan collections was the cropped fur jacket with styling ranging from boxy bombers and collarless blousons to more retro inspired full furs. Krizia and Sportmax worked grooved fur techniques in to easy zip-front silhouettes while at Roberto Cavalli, a collarless blouson was offered in a two-tone feathered fox with decorative trim detailing. Ports 1961 kept things clean and simple for a tailored fur/fabric bomber while at Gianfranco Ferre, a plush full fur DB style with fox collar and front made a dramatic statement. Blugirl used piecing techniques to create a horizontal stripe effect for a vintage-inspired edge-to-edge jacket with stand collar.

Fur Placement

As fur/fabric combinations have now become part of the fashion landscape, we are seeing a new trend emerge for fur placement on various fabrications and garment types. By using the contrasting texture of fur, its positioning on a garment makes a dramatic statement and redefines the silhouette. At Krizia and Ports 1961, shoulder definition was added to a collarless blazer and ribbed knit, while at Ter et Bantine, a more whimsical take saw contrasting sheared fur used as pocket and sleeve placement. Jo No Fui and Marni used fur to create striking front detail on feminine silhouettes, while at Prada, exaggerated fur cuffs added a playful vintage appeal to a jacket/skirt ensemble.

Colour Blocking

Colour blocking has been a trend to slowly emerge from the collections and in Milan, we loved the use of colour to create a bold graphic statement. Simonetta Ravizza and Chicca Lualdi chose traditional colour blocking to create graphic looks for vintage-inspired styles, while at Marni, a two-tone caped silhouette worked over a 2pc dress ensemble for a contemporary eveningwear look. We adored Fendi's directional use of colour for a striped DB coat that mixed neutrals with pop brights and an edgy graphic update to the classic fur chubby. At Angelo Marani, an asymmetrical look in electric blue and lipstick red worked back to a natural fur handle put the emphasis on contrast of colour and texture. Gorgeous!

Lamb Separates

With fur now being used by a plethora of designers around the globe, it only makes sense that it should evolve in to something beyond the traditional coat silhouette, and as we see in Milan, lamb has become a go-to fur handle for modern day separates dressing. At Cividini and Ports 1961, simple shell tops are given a textural update, while Gabriele Colangelo layers a tailored V-neck shell over a hooded striped knit for a slightly futuristic feel. DSquared 2 goes retro, adding a luxurious tactile appeal to a classic ¾ pencil skirt, while Ter et Bantine play with contrasting long & short haired fur lengths for added definition. At Maurizio Pecoraro, soft and supple dyed lamb is worked into a simple belted dress silhouette for a statement in discreet luxury.

A Decorative Mix

As we saw in New York, there is a trend emerging for decorative fur/fabric mixes with an oriental/ethnic feel and retro bohemian undertones. At Laura Biagiotti, a streamlined 60s-inspired look is worked in an ornamental brocade with fur collar, while at Marni, a two-tone cape silhouette layers over a painterly oriental print. An edge-to-edge carpetbag brocade coat is given voluminous fox sleeves at Antonio Marras and at Laura Biagiotti, bold print & pattern works back to a dramatic red fox collar for a more structured boho appeal. A fur/feather fabrication at Emilio Pucci inspires a 70s feel while at Roberto Cavalli, fur mixes with metallic trim detail for an ethnic-inspired update on the collarless cropped jacket.

Saturated Brights

As in London, bold colour statements came through at the Milan shows where a spectrum of saturated brights were worked in a cross-section of fur types and silhouettes. Fendi and Ter et Bantine opted for an ultra vivid electric blue, sheared and shaped into a fur/fabric jumper and longer-haired for a belted full fur style. Laura Biagiotti added a plush fur collar to a streamlined DB coat in bright yellow while at Just Cavalli, a lipstick red fur/leather mix was used for a collarless moto jacket update. Oxblood dyed fox creates a dramatic side effect on a belted leather gilet at Sergei Grinko, while a face-framing shawl collar in burnt orange adds theatrical appeal to a ladylike look at Maurizio Pecoraro.

Retro Looks

At the Milan shows, there was a retro-inspired trend that drew on the simple yet clearly defined silhouette direction from the 50s and 60s – here, we see modern updates on classic form given the added luxe touch of fur. Simonetta Ravizza and Emporio Armani rework the cropped ¾ sleeve collarless jacket in muted green mink and soft touch grey fur with crochet edging. At Gucci, a 60s-inspired wide collared DB jacket in recoloured lamb works back to a matching mid-calf pencil skirt, while at Sergei Grinko, dyed fox creates a caped effect on a streamlined zip-front coat shape. Simonetta Ravizza updates the classic 60s dress coat while at Prada, the 50sinspired cropped swing coat is reworked into a smoky chocolate brown and given a modern vintage appeal.

Mixed Furs

One of the strongest trends to emerge from the Milan collections was for the mixing of furs, often with contrasting handles creating dramatic textural appeal. At Just Cavalli, a mix of furs and leather offer a modern update on boho styling in black-on-black, while at Maurizio Pecoraro, a dégradé colour blocking effect works for a simple gilet look. Ter et Bantine mixes grooved fur with silky mink trim for a simple shell tank, while at Marni, it's a contrast of long and short haired furs to create a dramatic coat silhouette. Emilio Pucci works mink and textured lamb into a retro cape look while at Fendi, contrasting furs are given a modern appeal with bold colour highlights for a sporty tribal feel.

Animal Print Looks

As we have seen throughout the collections, the trend for animal printed furs has been prevalent in all cities and Milan is no exception – here, what is interesting, is the introduction of separates into the mix. At Emilio Pucci and Ermanno Scervino, printed ponyskin is worked into a tailored short and wrap skirt, while at Versace, pieced leather and mink create a zebra effect in graphic black and white for a micro mini skirt style. At John Richmond, a bomber/blouson is reworked in tonal greys and leather while at Francesco Scognamiglio, a luxe fox collar frames the neckline of a printed coat style for dramatic appeal. At Simonetta Ravizza, leopard spotted ponyskin works into an easy tie-front silhouette for a modern update on the animal printed full fur coat.